Cape Horn, Beagle Channel and our return to Ushuaia

It is 12:30 am and I write this as we make our way up the Beagle channel to Ushuaia, Argentina. Earlier today, we passed Cape Horn, the southernmost point of the Americas. This formation is part of the country of Chile, so we can only come within twelve miles because our ship did not register to go within Chilean waters. You should be able to see the Horn in the background.

Cape Horn was encompassed with clouds which gave it an ominous feel. This is a significant navigation point on the map that sailors throughout the centuries have highlighted. It was almost a sign for them that they had passed the oceanic right of passage through the southern ocean on their way to the Atlantic. It is now something I have in common with a select group of ocean fairing people. This is a pretty select bond with these people when you think about it.

The Drake Passage had rough waters for the entire passage. When we were not rocking from bow to stern then it was port to starboard. People were running into the walls of the ship or often times into each other. Now that we are in the Beagle Channel it is very calm. In about half an hour, a pilot boat will guide us the rest of the way into port at Ushuaia. My bunk mate Sean Hannaby and I have our bags packed. The members of our expedition will have a 6:00 am wake-up call. Breakfast will be at 7:00 am and I will disembark with all those expedition members who need to make it to the Ushuaia airport for early flights.

At 5:15 I looked out the porthole window of our cabin and tried to decide whether to brave the cold morning and wind one more time. Going out on deck to capture one more picture, one more experience that I could relate when I arrived home. For a moment, I decided to get back in bed and try to get a few more minutes of sleep. It was going to be a long couple of days flight to get back home. Then I remembered the commitment to myself of getting as much out of this opportunity as possible. I put on my clothes and coat and made the final walk to the top deck. I walked out into the cold wind and watched as the sailors brought us into dock. Watching as sailors pulled the massive ropes to shore that would hold the ship in place. There I reflected on the past few weeks. Everything I had seen, heard and said and tried to develop a mental message to share on my return. As I stood in thought, a shorter figure dressed in black walked up. Robert Swan said, "good morning mate" with that British accent. I asked how he was doing and he responded saying, "Good, this is my time. It is the time I can relax knowing that everyone has returned from the expedition safely." We chatted about the expedition for a moment before he dismissed himself to make final preparations to disembark.

This will be a sad goodbye as we each depart for our small corner of the globe. This expedition has developed some good relationships. We have been able to share a part of the world relatively few have experienced or seen close up. However, I know I will be able to call or send an email to Sean, Jens, Parker or a number of other expedition members and get a laugh or a reflective moment from our expedition memories to Antarctica.

I’m very excited to get home. I have been away from my family and friends for too long and it will be fun catching up. I miss my wife and children. In fifteen years of marriage, I have never done anything like this for myself. My energies have been invested into raising my family and building my career. As I sit and reflect on this expedition, a few things come to mind. I had dreamed of going to Antarctica and having a life changing experience like this expedition, but was never sure if it would happen. I’ve previously mentioned that it is part of my personality to try new things, find new adventures. But there is emptiness when you can’t share it simultaneously with those you love the most. It is great to finally reach that distant goal I set for myself, but it would have tasted better if my wife was there to experience it with me. I will bring home the pictures and rave about Antarctica and how we need to do all we can to preserve it as a global wilderness area, but in the end, I feel the experience may fall short.